To begin with, the situation looks far from promising. Having given up its protein for cheese, the whey that has been returned to the huge pan is thin, opaque and not unlike cloudy washing-up water. The situation changes slightly when whole milk is added to the whey, along with rennet, and it’s then reheated, or re-cooked (ri-cotta). For a while, nothing happens. Then follows a slight, just perceptible wobbling, before, quite suddenly, like scudding clouds moving into view, scraggy clumps of coagulated protein, albumin and globulin appear on the surface. These are lifted out in the same way as foam from a pan of broth: scooped off with a large slotted spoon. At least that is how it is done by Filippo Privitera at Caseificio Privitare in Castellana Sicula in the province of Palermo. The coagulated protein, otherwise known as ricotta, is then dropped into perforated plastic tubes on a slanting surface so it can drain some more, before being eaten in many ways.
For the Feast newsletter a few weeks ago, I wrote about the many ways to eat ricotta. Like many, I have long known what a useful ingredient it is, but, going through decades of archives, I was reminded just how versatile ricotta is, moving with ease between savoury and sweet, and both straight from the pot and cooked. However, since writing that newsletter, things I forgot to mention have also scudded into my head: how good ricotta is in pastry (a roast pumpkin, mushroom and chestnut pie is especially good); that it can be whipped with coffee for Anna Del Conte’s quick pudding; mixed with flour for sweet fritters; or made into polpette di ricotta e pane (ricotta and breadcrumb balls), which can be deep-fried or simmered in a rich tomato, basil and chilli sauce.
Another thing that arose from the newsletter were suggestions from readers as to ricotta produced in the UK. As well as Westcombe Dairy in Somerset, which makes it with the whey left over from cheddar and caerphilly, there’s Yorkshire Pecorino, which is based in Otley; La Latteria in London; and Nettlebed Creamery in Oxfordshire. I will repeat a note from the newsletter here: while there is no doubt that fresh ricotta and the pasteurised sort found in supermarkets are entirely different creatures – and I feel glad to have both – fresh is full-flavoured with a pleasant saltiness and unique, granular texture, while processing creates a more regular product – creamy and with a smoother texture. That said, with adequate seasoning and care, both are suitable for today’s recipe.
Ricotta and breadcrumb balls in tomato, chilli and basil sauce
Serves 4
1 egg
2 tbsp whole milk
100g soft white breadcrumbs
250g ricotta
2 tbsp finely grated parmesan, or other hard, seasoned cheese
Nutmeg, grated, to taste
Salt and black pepper
1 small handful flat-leaf parsley, finely minced (optional)
4 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled, gently bashed but left whole
800g tin whole plum tomatoes
1 small, minced red chilli, or 1 tsp red chilli flakes
1 big sprig basil
In a bowl, lightly beat the egg and milk, then add the breadcrumbs. Mix well and leave to sit for 15 minutes.
Add the ricotta and parmesan to the bowl, then use a spoon or your hands to mix (squeeze) the mixture together. Taste and add nutmeg, salt and black pepper as required, and the minced parsley, if you wish, then mix again.
Working with wet hands, roll walnut-sized lumps of mixture into smooth balls, then leave to rest in the fridge while you get on with the sauce.
In a deep frying pan on a medium-low heat, warm the olive oil and garlic until fragrant, then add the tomatoes and simmer for 20 minutes. Use a potato masher to break up the tomatoes, then add the chilli and basil and simmer for five minutes more.
Carefully lower the ricotta balls into the gently simmering sauce and poach for 12 minutes, shaking the pan gently and often, so they don’t stick together, and turning with a spoon halfway. Pull off the heat, leave to sit for 10 minutes, then serve with greens and bread.
