The words “acid exfoliant” scare the bejesus out of those with more sensitive skin, but they can be a godsend in making texture more even and makeup smoother and more long-lasting.
In fact, a liquid containing the right blend of dead-skin-sloughing alpha or beta hydroxy acids will be infinitely more gentle, effective and even than those gritty physical scrub exfoliants many still reach for.
The influence of South Korea’s wildly popular milky toners, with their focus on hydration and skin-barrier protection, can be seen in a new crop of milky acid exfoliants. These combine sturdy skin-clearing acids with skin-softening, soothing ingredients to cushion the blow.
I love most things from US brand Naturium, but its recent launch of Multi Bright Milky Toner (£19), is a smash. This is a blend of exfoliating polyhydroxy acid gluconolactone (already gentler than most), azelaic acid (for uneven tone) and moisturising ingredients such as squalane, glycerin and rice bran oil that smooths and brightens.
It’s a great option for those who’ve previously craved the glow of glycolic acid toners, but have found them too tingly, harsh and/or reddening. (Sturdier skin more experienced with acid may instead wish to try Naturium’s matching serum, £26, which uses lactic and glycolic acids for more punch.) I’ve worn the toner a lot in recent weeks and found it to be as effective as any exfoliant, but with no sting in its tail.
Trinny Woodall is of the same mind. Her company Trinny London’s new Tiptoe In exfoliant (£36) is a milky non-watery serum, that is applied with hands straight after cleansing. Offered as a gentler alternative to the brand’s popular Reveal Yourself exfoliant, this uses gluconolactone to exfoliate, but also includes lactobionic, another polyhydroxy acid with a gentle touch. Add in humectant trehalose and you have a plumping, comfy layer that earns its keep throughout the day.
Sensitive skin doesn’t necessarily lack moisture, of course – oilier skins can be just as tetchy when it comes to harsh chemicals. The Ordinary’s Saccharomyces Ferment 30% Milky Toner (£12.40), is a gorgeous product at a brilliant price that’s equally suitable for dry and oily skins (and all types in between). A drenched cotton pad sweeps away dead skin and excess oil gently, without leaving even my dry skin parched.
I would use these products maybe four times a week, after cleansing, then increasing to daily use if all is calm.
