In series eight of Peep Show, Mark (David Mitchell) is working as a salesman in a bathroom shop when a customer asks him for a “modern but traditional” bathroom. Aghast, he tells the customer that these opposing styles can’t be married when his boss, Super Hans, swoops in to say they can: “Fancy taps but a rainforest shower head?” I was reminded of this silliness because here I’ve tried to create a risotto of opposing styles: lighter than a traditional one, because I’m using some blitzed cauliflower, while maintaining that richness you get from a cauliflower cheese. I think it works, but I’ll let you be the judge.
Cauliflower and parmesan risotto with lemon breadcrumbs
You’ll need a food processor to blitz the cauli. A nonstick or well seasoned pan is helpful for cooking cauliflower, because it tends to stick and burn in other pans.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4
400g cauliflower florets (ie, from 1 small cauliflower)
4 tbsp olive oil
60g unsalted butter
2 brown onions, peeled and finely chopped
¾ tsp fine sea salt
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
125ml white wine
1 tbsp dijon mustard
220g risotto rice
1 litre vegetable stock
80g vegetarian parmesan, finely grated
80g creme fraiche
For the topping
1 tbsp olive oil
60g dried breadcrumbs
20g flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 unwaxed lemon, zest finely grated, then juiced to get 1 tbsp
¼ tsp aleppo pepper
Salt, to taste
Put the cauliflower in a food processor, blitz to a fine mince, then set aside.
Put the olive oil and two-thirds (ie, 40g) of the butter in a wide pan on a medium to high heat. Once the butter has melted and the oil is hot, add the onions and salt and fry gently, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes, until soft and golden but not browning.
Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for another two minutes. Tip in the minced cauliflower, cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, until soft and reduced in volume, then pour in the wine and leave to cook for five minutes, until the liquid has evaporated.
Stir in the mustard and rice, then add a ladle of stock and stir until it’s absorbed. Repeat with the remaining stock, ladle by ladle, waiting for the liquid to be absorbed before adding more, and stirring frequently along the way. It should take 25-30 minutes for all the liquid to be absorbed and for the rice to become just shy of tender. Take the pan off the heat, beat in the remaining butter, parmesan and creme fraiche, and pop on a lid while you fry the breadcrumbs.
Put the tablespoon of oil in a small frying pan on a medium to low heat and, when it’s hot, add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring, for four minutes, until nicely browned all over. Add the parsley, lemon zest and juice, aleppo pepper and a pinch or two of salt, cook, stirring, for another two minutes, until the breadcrumbs are dry again, then take off the heat.
Ladle the risotto into four bowls, sprinkle the breadcrumbs on top and serve.
